While certifications have made it slightly easier to source more sustainable fabrics off-the-rack since the documentary was filmed, Powney says, brands still need to approach with caution. “Instead of getting our supply chain partners to create what I wanted, I worked with them to understand what they could create in the most sustainable and ethical way, and figured out the product specifications after.” Spurred by the lack of connection, Powney flipped Mother of Pearl’s design process on its head. While making the documentary, Powney visited a farmer in Uruguay, who said he had never met a designer before, despite working with fashion brands for several decades. We teach a human-centred approach when we need a life-centred approach.” But, we don’t learn about the planet or how ecosystems work. We learn how to design in the way other designers have done before us. “We learn how to read and write in languages that humans created. It’s not even scratching the surface,” she says. “We need to scrap the fashion curriculum and start over. Powney attended fashion school, where she says an understanding of fashion’s relationship with the planet was missing. Mother of Pearl’s designs have also become more consistent and less trend-led, its supply chains have been shortened and suppliers unmasked, and the brand has stepped back from the fashion calendar in a bid to pursue slower, more sustainable growth. Sales order growth has seen similar success, growing 27 per cent in the year to 2021, another 32 per cent in the year to 2022, and 8 per cent in the year to date for 2023. It’s grown a further 30 per cent since then. Gross sales revenue grew 40 per cent between 20, despite the pandemic reducing turnover.
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